There are a few factors for you to consider when setting up your indoor garden. You must first decide if you are going to be using soil or hydroponics. If you are new to gardening, I suggest starting with soil until you learn the effects of your fertilizer on your plants. If you are growing a variety of plants, I highly recommended starting with soil. You can work your way up to hydroponics by building your own drip system for your indoor garden.
Modifying the Circulating Drip System for Soil Container Gardens
To make the Circulating Drip System into a regular drip system for your container garden, you will just need to take the containers off the reservoir and into a Drain Table. There is a guide for building a homemade drain table here. It is for small plants, if you fill it with large containers it will tumble over. For bigger containers, you can buy a strong drain table or just sit them on something you can drain every day.
Here is an example of a Grow Box made out of a dresser. It is very easy to do because the frame of the grow chamber is already made.
So you want to start an indoor garden but don’t know how to build a grow box. Building a grow box is actually simple once you understand the mechanics. Today you will learn every thing you need to know to build your own grow box.
The following guide will walk you through the basics of constructing a grow box out of an old piece of furniture. A lot of indoor gardeners are also very enthusiastic about recycling, so this should really hit home for a lot of you. The dresser grow box could be considered a grow cabinet, whatever you want to call it, the function is the same.
5 Reasons You Need Grow Box Plans:
1. Grow Room Ventilation: There is too much to say here. You will obviously need some sort of exhaust. The size of fan you need depends on the size of your grow box or grow room. This simple grow box uses PC fans which can be wired to an old PC power supply very easily. You can also control the timing of the fans by putting the power supply on a timer.
WARNING: Do not use the biggest power supply you can find. Stick to a smaller power supply with low wattage because the fans use very little power. If you do not know what you are doing, use a pre-made fan that you can just plug in. For 20 bucks you can get a dryer type ventilation fan that can be attached to ducting.
Cut a hole in the back of your box and screw your fan into place. You can also use epoxy or strong glue.
2. Reflective: Reflectiveness should depend on your budget. Aluminum foil is probably the cheapest material, but it certainly doesn’t reflect the most light. Since you will likely be using small grow lights, you will want to get the most out of it. White poly or Mylar are the premium choice.
3. Water proof/Bug proof/Mold proof: Water proofing is one of the most important things about building a grow box. All hydroponic systems should be in water proofed grow boxes, or outdoors where they can’t possibly make a mess. I’ll discuss bug proof more in the next point. Mold proofing takes a little common sense. Don’t use carpet for the floor of your grow box or anything dumb like that.
4. Air tight: You will want your grow box to be air tight so that light doesn’t escape, bugs will have a harder time getting in, and you will want control of the ventilation.
5. Odor control: Some people enjoy having fresh herbs, vegetables, and fruits growing in their house, but don’t want their house to smell like a garden or green house. Some people just don’t like that smell. You can get a carbon filter for the unwanted smells, but you will need to get an inline fan, which could dramatically raise the price.
Electrical Components
Please make sure all of your electrical components are away from possible water sources. You should place your outlets on the out side of the grow box and hung up. The last thing you want is water in your electrical components.
Key Components
The small desk fan provides plenty of air movement in this small grow chamber. Here you can see two of the small ventilation fans and a few 23w CFLs. You want to get the most surface area of each bulb facing towards the plants. Notice the fan is pushing air OUT of the box. The fan at the top is drawing the heat from the lights and pushing it outside the grow box. The lights are what make the grow chamber's temperature rise. You don't want your plants to catch a fever!
Why should you use hydroponics to increase your yields? The same reason you started a garden! If you have ever had a successful harvest, you know the feeling I’m talking about. Some growers are discouraged by organic fertilizers when it comes to hydroponic gardens. Fear not growers, water soluble organic fertilizers are available online and at local hydroponics shops. Some greens can even be grown using tiny amounts of fertilizers. Basils, lettuce, mesclun, and other leafy plants can be grown organically in hydroponics system with very little fertilizer.
Organic indoor gardens can be maximized with the use of hydroponics. Organic hydroponic systems are like normal hydroponic gardens, but with a little more care to detail and quality.
The seeds for this plant were started in soil. The container with the soil was planted directly into a mini DWC System for extremely explosive vegetative growth.
The salad mix in the picture was started in a jiffy pot full of soil. When the seeds sprouted, the jiffy pots were put into a mini DWC system. The roots grew through the soil and into the DWC environment. There was explosive root growth when the roots entered the high humidity environment.
The salad grew very fast under simple CFL lighting. Small hydro setups can produce big results with the right knowledge.
This is a single 3 inch jiffy pot full of soil. Each Jiffy yielded at least 2 or 3 servings of salad greens under only CFL lighting.
The water in this reservoir is not fit for a hydroponic system.
Reservoir changes are an essential part to all hydroponic systems. The reservoir is where your oxygenated water and nutrient solution rests in between feedings. You can read up on res changes if you are unfamiliar with them. Depending on the size of your reservoir, hydroponic growing system, and nutrient solution your reservoir should be changed every 7-14 days. Recirculating hydroponic systems need to be monitored closely for signs indicating its time for a res change. If you procrastinate too long, your plants may become victim to the dreaded salt lock up. Look for these 5 signs to ensure you don’t wait too long!
1. Discolored Reservoir Water – Hydroponic systems usually have nutrients and potentially an insecticide like Azamax mixed into the reservoir. After recirculation the solution picks up extra things you do not want to continually recirculate through your system. If your nutrient solution is not the color it was after you mixed it, it may be time for a res change.
2.Dead bugs – Dead bugs can have germs and carry diseases you do not want transfered to your plants. If you see floating dead bugs in your reservoir water, change it!
3. Wrong PH/High PPM – If the PH of your water is too high, you could damage your plant’s root system. You can get products that will adjust your PH, but use them in moderation. There could be a greater problem you are missing out on if you continually lower your PH with solutions. A high PPM can lead to nutrient burns and salt lockouts. You can add plain water to offset a high PPM, but a reservoir change is in place if you made your nutrient solution too strong.
4. Plants are deficient in one nutrient, but over fertilized by another – Using multi part nutrient solutions can give a grower a lot of precision. If you notice your plants are showing signs of deficiency for potassium, but look over fertilized, they could just need a different ratio of nutrients. A reservoir change will allow you to start your nutrient mix from a fresh pallet.
5. Two Week Rule – If you have been using the same res water for more than two weeks, its probably time for a change. Letting your res water evaporate and get low can also spike your PPM. Don’t let a huge reservoir fool you! You still need to monitor your PH and PPM because the nutrients do not evaporate out of the water.
Mixing nutrients is an essential part to all hydroponic growing systems. Plants require nutrients to grow. Hydroponic systems are designed to ensure maximum nutrient uptake. Use this guide to mix your nutrients correctly every time! Mixing nutrients in your reservoir is easy – follow the pictures if you are confused.
Start with plain water to mix with your hydroponics nutrient.
Start with reverse osmosis water if you can. I use one gallon jugs to fill water and mix nutrients. Growers with bigger reservoirs will want to use a 5 gallon bucket to mix nutrients. Make sure the container you use is food grade.
Get a clean measurement tool like a cylinder. Read the label of your nutrients to determine the measurement of nutrients you need per gallon. If you are using a five gallon bucket make sure to multiply by 5. I like to start with half of what the bottle recommends to ensure I don’t burn my plants. Pour your high grade organic nutrients into the measurement tool to make sure you have the correct amount.
Pour your hydroponic plant nutrients into your measurement tool.Measure and double check your plant nutrient measurement before adding to your water.
Make sure you double check your nutrient measure. It is good to know the amount of nutrients used and at what time in the plant’s life cycle. Jotting down quick notes of these metrics and their results can leave you with valuable information for your next crop. Grow logs are an essential tool in building a better growing environment.
Once you have the correct amount of nutrients, pour them into you water that is to be mixed in the reservoir.
Line up your measurement device with the lip of your container and pour your nutrients in slowly. If you tilt the cylinder too much you may overshoot your container. If you spill some the measurement you took is now wrong. The loss will not affect your grow in a severe manner, but it is nice to have close to accurate measurements. Even if you are trying to achieve 100% efficiency you are unlikely to do so.
Cap the container and shake the nutrients until they are well mixed.
A good garden has places where water can drain away from the soil. Drainage mostly applies to container gardens and raised garden beds. The amount of drainage versus the growing medium’s ability to hold water are important ratios to consider when setting up a garden for a new plant. Some plants require a lot of moisture while others may need their containers to dry out in between waterings. The ratio the plant requires will determine the type of growing medium, the type of drip emitter to use, and how much to water the plant each day.
Holes are mandatory in the bottom of containers being used for plants in container gardens.
There are countless designs for containers featuring different types of drainage. The container on the left is a massive planter and just has a few large holes on the bottom. You would want to put some small rocks or hydroclay over these holes. Most gardeners cover the bottom of the container with rocks so soil won’t drain out with the water. I like soil less growing medium rocks that can be used in hydroponic systems for a similar purpose. Some plastic containers also feature side drainage holes. It really depends on what you prefer.
These plastic containers are small and drain through the bottom with many drain holes.
There are also containers that promote high oxygen levels in the root zone. Containers like Smart Pots have great drainage. Good drainage is key to maximizing the oxygen in the root zone. Smart pots can be used in soil and hydroponics gardens. They come in many sizes and can be used indoor or out. Economical gardeners favor them because they are high quality, highly productive, and washable. The Smart Pots can be re used or transplanted directly to the next pot or outdoor garden.
Smart pots are great containers for all types of gardeners.
Some reasons drainage is important:
Too much water is bad for your plants if they don’t need it.
Do everything you can to prevent mold and mildew.
Leaving water in the grow space can mean spills for indoor gardeners
Bugs and Pests love a little extra water potentially filled with nutrients or sugars.
Roots filled with too much water are being suffocated because they are not receiving enough oxygen
In the latest issue of Maximum Yield there was an article about high yields in tight spaces. The article is motivational for new gardeners who may be discouraged to start an indoor garden. A simple indoor garden can provide cheap organic food for a family. It’s economical and eco-friendly. The gardener knows exactly what is going into the food. The knowledge of the food’s growth can ensure there are no harmful chemicals or pesticides being used. Despite the food and agricultural industry’s best attempts to bring families clean food, sometimes there are contaminations. Think of all the times you have heard about major food recalls on the news. These kind of things seem to be fairly rare and random, but there are ways to protect your self.
“Ever consider container or vertical gardening? Container gardening is an intriguing option for anyone living in tight quarters, as they are compact and easy to move around. Indoor container gardening is a natural extension of an outdoor garden. Any size home is a great space that will accommodate all kinds of plants. ” – Aubree Gail Gagne
Read the rest of this great article at Maximum Yield.
Fans are not just for cooling your high powered grow lights and ballasts. I use fans in every grow space to create wind. Wind will help to move the air around in your room so it does not stagnate and get used up. Plant leaves like oxygen and breathe like we do. They need a constant supply of fresh oxygen to be used at any given time. If your air never moves, your plants are losing all the extra oxygen they could be pulling from fresh air. An exhaust duct with a strong inline fan will move some air from negative pressure, but it is no where near what the plants are used to from Mother Nature.
Take a look out your window. If there are trees around you, see if their branches are blowing in the wind. Think about how brutally bent you’ve seen some trees and plants after a storm. If the plant is not uprooted or snapped, it seems to recover from the storm. You do not want to create a wind tunnel that has your plants curving to the ground, but a nice breeze is a good idea. The best thing about indoor gardening is you become Mother Nature. That means you choose the time and strength of the wind.
I use desk fans of various sizes to control air circulation in my indoor garden. I look for fans with various speeds that can be easily hung in the space I need. Letting the fans sit on the ground causes loud vibrations that get annoying after a few hours. I suggest hanging inline fans as well for the same reason. High power inline fans can get extremely loud if not hung.You can decide the location of the fans inside your grow room. I like to position at least one towards the center of the light so the hot air is pushed where the exhaust fan can pull it out. Another good place for a circulation fan is close to the intake fan. The circulation fan will move the colder fresh air where it can be used by all your plants. Check your plants needs to make sure this won’t make your medium too dry or too cold. Sometimes having a warm ballast in the room is needed for heat depending on your complete cooling system.
Wind will make your plants tough and force them to thicken their stems. Thicker stems can be beneficial for supporting a plant’s weight and ensuring the proper amount of nutrients and water to each stem. If your plants never experience wind they may be limp or droopy. If you do not introduce a plant to wind early, it may develop too thin and weak. A plant that is weak will suffer stress when it is first introduced to heavy winds. It should eventually adjust and strengthen its stem, but you may be diminishing your yield from a lack of planning. Starting seeds inside that will be transplanted outside need to be hardened off. You must gradually expose them to more light and wind until they can handle the harsh outdoors. You may have two fans of different strengths placed in two different spaces in your grow room on two different time settings. Having this much variation would vary the speed, and direction of the wind throughout the day. That type of air circulation is closer to the real experience for the plants.
Today I was watching TV and saw a special on the damage a high magnitude earthquake would do to a city like San Francisco, California. The damage was unbelievable! Traffic in and out of the city would be at a stand still, if it was even operational. Communication lines would be down. A whole mess of things I don’t want to be in. A specialist said the people who were the most independent and self-sustaining, would be the most likely to survive in a crisis like that.
Hydroponics is a clean and green way to grow food practically anywhere. Not only can you grow anywhere, you can MAXIMIZE anywhere. Hydroponic systems are very efficient and practically run themselves with the right equipment and knowledge. The point is the people of San Francisco and all other urbanized areas, can be just as green as anyone else. Just because you are a renter in a small apartment with zero yard space does not mean you can’t have a small wheat grass box, a flood and drain tomato table, and a simple deep water culture herb tote for all your cooking spices. 35-40 cubic feet of space(a 3×3 box about 4 or 5 feet high) is more than enough to take up a serious hydroponic hobby and home food production center. There is nothing better than the satisfaction of eating your own harvest.
Hydroponics are by no means limited to vegetables. If you are like me and really like fresh strawberries all year round, you have a reason to start an indoor garden! Not only will you have your favorite fresh fruit to eat whenever you want, but you will also learn A LOT about the plant you choose to grow. You may find that you can grow a better berry than the local farmers depending on your area.
Pass this knowledge on to a friend whom you think is wasteful or unaware of the many benefits of having a home hydroponics garden.
If you have wilting clones there could be a number of issues with your hydroponic cloning method. Make sure to have a thermometer to measure temperature and humidity accurately throughout the day. You can find digital ones at a department stores or hydro shops that will tell you the current and high/low temps and humidity throughout the day. The digital ones aren’t expensive in comparison to the knowledge you’ll have. If you are using a metal halide or other high powered lighting system, the clones must be a few feet away so they receive minimal light. If they get too much light they will try to work too hard with roots they don’t have.
If the temperature is getting to be in the 80’s F move the lights up more or add a circulation fan on a timer so the humidity stays high. Having a fan on for an hour at a time 2 or 3 times a day will really help to move the hot air. Try to use cool burning bulbs like fluorescent tubes so your temperature will stay down. A high humidity of 90% or higher will help your fresh cuttings more than anything else. Spray the walls of a clear container with water and put it over your cloning system. You can also attach spray emitters to a small water pump to spray water automatically for the first few days to ensure success rate. The humidity needs to be high so the leaves of the cutting can absorb water from the air because it does not have any roots to do that job yet. It may need a small hole or two for air flow so the temperature stays low and the cuttings have access to as much oxygen as they need.
Use an aeroponic or deep water culture method with aerated water to keep the roots or stems in a 100% humidity environment until they are established for transplant. You can find cloning systems at your local hydroponics store, online, or even build your own! Hardware stores and hydroponic shops should have pretty much everything you need to build your own.
