Hydroponic Systems – Hydroponic Economics

You Need a 30 Amp Timer Box

What a Lifesaver and Timesaver this box has been! What does it do you ask, what doesn’t it do? First it lets you plug straight into your 30 Amp Dryer Socket. So instead of trying to plug in your HID lights straight into the wall in your room, your using the higher amperage dryer socket instead! No more tripping your breaker when you plug in your second 1000w light.

Specifics

This particular model allows you to run up to 4 1000w lights and up to 10 amps of accessories from the same timer. The 4 1000w lights are run off of 20 Amp Breaker and 240V receptacles instead of the traditional 120V. The benefit of this configuration is that a 1000W HPS running at 240V (4.3Amps) runs at half the amperage then if plugged into 120V(8.9Amps). Essentially this will run 4 1000W lights for the costs of 2!

I also run my fans that cool my Air Cooled Hoods through this box. Another electricity saver; When my lights turn off, their cooling fans turn off. The box is controlled by a single 120V Trigger cord. I have mine connected to a digital timer which makes it nice and easy to control it and see what is happening. Make sure the timer will carry the load of whatever you have plugged into it, safety is always the most important thing. Never plug more then One 1000w Light into a standard timer.

The Amp Timer box saved me so much time and money. Its costs around $300 and compared to the several hundred dollars more it would have cost to higher an electrician to come in and do the work it was worth every penny. Not to mention how much lighter the electric bill will be in the future.

You can get the 30 Amp Timer Box at Amazon. Click here to read more.

Kevin

Free Food Grade Plastic Containers

The following post is inspired by a thoughtful contributor at the Helpful Gardener Forums. You can view the original thread about free/inexpensive plastic containers here.

Plastic containers are a crucial component of most home hydroponics systems. They can be used as plant containers, reservoirs, rain barrels, and even humidity domes.

Plastic buckets for home hydroponics systems can be expensive and counter productive to the project at hand; saving money and eating healthier in the process. If you are willing to ask around you can probably find what you need for free.

5 Places You Can Ask For Plastic Containers

1. Deli – Have you thought of using pickle jars or other deli containers?

2. Grocery Store – Sometimes the different departments of the grocery store will be tossing out buckets, see if they can be tossed to you.

3. Ice Cream Shop – 5 gallon buckets of ice cream.

4. Fish Restaurant – They may keep different kinds of food in plastic containers.

5. Various Mom and Pop Restaurants – These places may be more willing to help out local gardeners.

When you are out there, don’t forget, it never hurts to ask. Good luck Green Thumbs!

Grow Box Guide: How to Build A Grow Box

Build Grow Box — Here is an example of a Grow Box made out of a dresser. It is very easy to do because the frame of the grow chamber is already made.

So you want to start an indoor garden but don’t know how to build a grow box. Building a grow box is actually simple once you understand the mechanics. Today you will learn every thing you need to know to build your own grow box.

The following guide will walk you through the basics of constructing a grow box out of an old piece of furniture. A lot of indoor gardeners are also very enthusiastic about recycling, so this should really hit home for a lot of you. The dresser grow box could be considered a grow cabinet, whatever you want to call it, the function is the same.

5 Reasons You Need Grow Box Plans:

1. Grow Room Ventilation: There is too much to say here. You will obviously need some sort of exhaust. The size of fan you need depends on the size of your grow box or grow room. This simple grow box uses PC fans which can be wired to an old PC power supply very easily. You can also control the timing of the fans by putting the power supply on a timer.

WARNING: Do not use the biggest power supply you can find. Stick to a smaller power supply with low wattage because the fans use very little power. If you do not know what you are doing, use a pre-made fan that you can just plug in. For 20 bucks you can get a dryer type ventilation fan that can be attached to ducting.

2. Reflective: Reflectiveness should depend on your budget. Aluminum foil is probably the cheapest material, but it certainly doesn’t reflect the most light. Since you will likely be using small grow lights, you will want to get the most out of it. White poly or Mylar are the premium choice.

3. Water proof/Bug proof/Mold proof: Water proofing is one of the most important things about building a grow box. All hydroponic systems should be in water proofed grow boxes, or outdoors where they can’t possibly make a mess. I’ll discuss bug proof more in the next point. Mold proofing takes a little common sense. Don’t use carpet for the floor of your grow box or anything dumb like that.

4. Air tight: You will want your grow box to be air tight so that light doesn’t escape, bugs will have a harder time getting in, and you will want control of the ventilation.

5. Odor control: Some people enjoy having fresh herbs, vegetables, and fruits growing in their house, but don’t want their house to smell like a garden or green house. Some people just don’t like that smell. You can get a carbon filter for the unwanted smells, but you will need to get an inline fan, which could dramatically raise the price.

Electrical Components

Please make sure all of your electrical components are away from possible water sources. You should place your outlets on the out side of the grow box and hung up. The last thing you want is water in your electrical components.

Key Components

Grow Room Fan — The small desk fan provides plenty of air movement in this small grow chamber.

Indoor Grow Lights: CFLS — Here you can see two of the small ventilation fans and a few 23w CFLs. You want to get the most surface area of each bulb facing towards the plants.

GUIDE: Build a Super Cheap Bubbleponic Cloner

Stronger Clones Start Here

Bubbleponic cloning systems are an easy to build solution to weak and limpy clones. The entire system will not cost you very much. If you use neorepene discs, like the E-Z Clone uses, you will have an efficient cloning system that uses no growth medium. The aeroponic cloner you will have after this guide can root clones in as little as 7 days with an organic rooting gel like Earth Juice Earthstock. There are plenty of other types of rooting gels and powders. Clonex and Olivia’s are two other gels that work well.

Example

Aeroponic Cloner — Check out this Pre-Assembled Aeroponic Cloning System

Supply List

-Storage Tote

-Neorepene EZ Clone Discs

-Air Pump

-Air Tubing

-Air Stones

-Power Drill w/ drill bit that is the same size as your discs.

Light Proof Your Tote

If you bought a light proof tote, you can skip this step. If it is clear or semi clear you need to wrap it in a reflective material. You can use Christmas wrapping paper if you do not have access to something else. You just want to make sure no light comes in through the walls of your tote. The storage tote will be the water reservoir for your cloning system.

Use HDPE Food Grade plastics for your storage tote if you plan on cloning consumable plants like fruits or veggies. Food grade plastics ensure the safety of you and your family. If the cloning system is only for flowers, there is no risk since you will not ingest the chemicals.

Continue reading “GUIDE: Build a Super Cheap Bubbleponic Cloner”

Fluorescent Grow Lights: Get Intense Vegetative Growth with Less Space

Indoor gardening tends to revolve around grow lights. grow lights have a very large effect on harvest weight. The more intense the light is, the faster your plants will grow, right? There is no practical light you could use to replicate the sun’s powerful beams. Instead, growers turn to high powered grow lights. High power lights use a lot of power and are usually really hot. They may not be practical for most indoor gardens.

High pressure sodium and metal halide light bulbs are really hot after they have been burning. They also crank up your electric bill. There are a few alternatives to this type of lighting. Metal halide bulbs are meant for vegetative growth. In most indoor gardens, the vegetative phase includes smaller plants. Swapping out your metal halide for a fluorescent grow light may save you space and energy. Fluorescent grow lights do not require large air cooled hoods because the fluorescent tubes stay relatively cool. At least cool enough for most plant growth.

Fluorescent Grow Lamps can be used for grow and bloom phases as long as you use the right bulbs.

A small salad greens garden for the family and your pets could be grown with ease under a few fluorescent grow lights. The grow lights you will want to use are not standard shop lights. Although low power shop lights will work for cloning systems, use indoor grow lights from a hydroponics shop. You can also order grow lights online. They are usually much cheaper online.

There are also fluorescent grow light bulbs for the bloom phase. They feature a red/orange spectrum. They are powerful enough to bloom tomatoes, strawberries, and other plants that do not require tropical light. Fluorescent light fixtures come in different sizes and lengths. Find the grow lights that will best suit your grow room.

Easy Grow Lights — Fluorescent light fixtures are usually outfitted with internal ballasts and a simple three prong cord.

The Hydrofarm 4-Foot T5 Grow Light System is a well respected Grow Light Set Up. Hydrofarm offers affordable grow lights that are cool enough for plant growth. Read over 50 customer reviews at Amazon.com

Have a Weak Drip System or Less Than Powerful Sprayers?

Before deciding your homemade drip system is non-functional, check your work. Did you plan the needed gallons per hour your pump would need to push water through the whole system? Water pumps are rated by GPH(Gallons per Hour). You will need to know the minimum GPH your drip system needs to pressurize the water and make it through your drip emitters.

New growers seem to back away from home made drip systems because they are unsure of the necessary parts. Drip irrigation kits are usually over priced and come with some pretty barebones parts. The kits may also come with a small reservoir, that you are required to use because the pump is attached to it. Avoid the woes of drip system kits by making your own irrigation system at home.

Home Drip System — Outdoor Drip System with a strong water pump at the heart of the reservoir.

Hydroponic shops carry all the parts you need to set up a custom drip system. Start with a plan. If you have not built your grow room yet, you will need to know the number of plants you plan on having and at least the distance the drip line will travel. It is important to know the distance of the drip line to calculate the power you need for your water pump.

To find out the needed GPH rating start with the length of tubing you are going to use. For every foot of tubing you use, regardless of size, subtract 1-2 GPH from the water pump’s rating. Check the packaging for the drip emitters you would like to use. The packaging should tell you the PSI rating. Take the PSI and multiply times the number of drippers. Subtract that number from the remaining GPH of the pump in question. If the number of GPH remaining is very low or negative, you need a stronger pump.

Calculating GPH for a Drip System: (2 GPH x 1 ft of tube) + (PSI rating of Drip Emitter x Number of Drip Emitters) = rough estimate of the necessary GPH. There are outside factors not mentioned in this equation. The number of connections the water has to travel through will affect the needed GPH. Bridged drip line connectors like tees and elbows can slow down your water. Be sure to wash your pump’s pre filter out during reservoir changes to ensure there is no blockage cutting down your GPH. Follow these simple guidelines to ensure you don’t buy an expensive water pump you don’t need or wind up with a less than functional drip system.

Top Feed — Strong water pumps can forcefully pump water out of open drip lines to feed even the most demanding plants.

Drip Systems: 5 Problems You Can Avoid

Drip system maintenance is key to running an efficient hydroponic drip system. Below are 5 problems to watch for in your drip system. Avoid these problems and you’ll be keeping your plants from automation gone wrong!

Hydroponic Water Pump Pre Filter — The foam filter inside of this water pump catches small particles before they have a chance to interrupt your drip system.

1.Drip Emitters – Clogged drip emitters are most likely the number one problem in drip systems. The best way to fix them is cut them off and try a fresh one.

2.Timer On/Off Switch – Have you ever turned the switch on your timer off so your drip system wouldn’t run during a reservoir change? Always double check to make sure that switch is back to ON when you are done.
3. Timer Malfunction – Timers can shut off for various reasons: water damage, battery or power failure, clock malfunction.
4. Reservoir Levels – Reservoir changes are necessary for productive hydroponic gardens. Evaporation and usage will drain your reservoir. When reservoir water evaporates, the nutrients and salts remain in the water. The extra salts create a higher ppm nutrient solution. Add plain or low ppm nutrient solution to get the levels back to where you want them.
5. Avoid Over Watering – Don’t run your drip system intervals for too long. Start with small intervals and increase or decrease frequency depending on your plant’s performance. It may take them a few days to react to changes so be patient.

Functioning Home Made Drip System — Both drippers are problem free!

Did you know you can buy and read customer reviews for Drip Emitters on Amazon? Check it out here.

Air Pump Broke on Hydroponics System

I have heard of many indoor gardeners plagued with broken air pumps. Don’t blame the broken air pump on a poorly built product, blame it on a poorly trained user. Sometimes air pumps won’t turn on after a power outage of some sort. The reason this happens is water is siphoned into the air pump. The water destroys the electrical components and the air pump no longer functions.

There is a preventative measure growers can take to protect their hydroponic garden from broken air pumps. The answer is a check valve. Check valves prevent water from siphoning water into the air pump in the case of a power loss. They are cheap and easy to install. You can find check valves in department stores, pet stores, aquarium stores, and of course hydroponics stores. They are the same type of check valve you put on an aquarium air pump.

Hydro systems with a reservoir should be using an air stone. The air stone is powered by the air pump. Nearly all hydroponic systems including drip systems will need an air pump. A check valve is something everyone should get when ever they get a new air pump.

To install a check valve simply cut air tubing to be secured to both sides of the Check Valve. Make sure to face the valve the right way so air can flow. Check Valve will make your hydroponic system more dependable. Its an awful feeling to lose a good harvest to a hydroponic equipment failure.

Click Here to get your check valves from Amazon.com

Time to Change Your Hydroponic Reservoir: Avoid Salt Lockup

Hydroponic Nutrient Reservoir — The water in this reservoir is not fit for a hydroponic system.

Reservoir changes are an essential part to all hydroponic systems. The reservoir is where your oxygenated water and nutrient solution rests in between feedings. You can read up on res changes if you are unfamiliar with them. Depending on the size of your reservoir, hydroponic growing system, and nutrient solution your reservoir should be changed every 7-14 days. Recirculating hydroponic systems need to be monitored closely for signs indicating its time for a res change. If you procrastinate too long, your plants may become victim to the dreaded salt lock up. Look for these 5 signs to ensure you don’t wait too long!

1. Discolored Reservoir Water – Hydroponic systems usually have nutrients and potentially an insecticide like Azamax mixed into the reservoir. After recirculation the solution picks up extra things you do not want to continually recirculate through your system. If your nutrient solution is not the color it was after you mixed it, it may be time for a res change.

2.Dead bugs – Dead bugs can have germs and carry diseases you do not want transfered to your plants. If you see floating dead bugs in your reservoir water, change it!

3. Wrong PH/High PPM – If the PH of your water is too high, you could damage your plant’s root system. You can get products that will adjust your PH, but use them in moderation. There could be a greater problem you are missing out on if you continually lower your PH with solutions. A high PPM can lead to nutrient burns and salt lockouts. You can add plain water to offset a high PPM, but a reservoir change is in place if you made your nutrient solution too strong.

4. Plants are deficient in one nutrient, but over fertilized by another – Using multi part nutrient solutions can give a grower a lot of precision. If you notice your plants are showing signs of deficiency for potassium, but look over fertilized, they could just need a different ratio of nutrients. A reservoir change will allow you to start your nutrient mix from a fresh pallet.

5. Two Week Rule – If you have been using the same res water for more than two weeks, its probably time for a change. Letting your res water evaporate and get low can also spike your PPM. Don’t let a huge reservoir fool you! You still need to monitor your PH and PPM because the nutrients do not evaporate out of the water.

Net Pots/Net Cups: Indoor Plant Container Review

Full Net Pot — Mesh pot full of rockwool and hydroton expanded clay.

Net Pots, also known as net cups,, are a traditional hydroponic medium container. The purpose of a net pot is to allow maximum oxygen uptake by the roots. Net cups also allow roots to grow out of the sides and bottom of the container. In order for the roots to grow out of the container they need to be in a dark enclosed growing environment. Examples of enclosed growing environments are Deep Water Culture(DWC), Nutrient Film Technique(NFT), and Aeroponics.

Mesh pots come in various sizes and are perfect for DIY hydroponic systems. They usually come with a small lip that will catch the sides of the container with the hole where the net pot goes. The homemade hydroponic system will hold the net cups in place to prevent them from falling in the reservoir. If you plan to use your net pots as plant containers for consumables, make sure to get food grade plastic.

There are also net pot bucket lids you can get. The lids fit on standard 5 gallon buckets. The bucket lid net pot allows you to turn a bucket into a homemade DWC or ebb and flow system. The mesh pots can be filled with different kinds of medium to fit your needs as a grower. In the picture I have a net cup filled with rockwool and hydroton clay pebbles. Try experimenting with different mediums and mixes to find out what works for you.